Visual
Inspection
As a professionally trained inspector, I will examine
more than 1,000 items to assist you in knowing as much as possible about your
home. The inspection Is a comprehensive visual examination of the accessible areas,
components, and systems of the building. Its purpose is to report on the function,
condition and safety of the components inspected. This type of inspection addresses
items Including, but not limited to:
·
Built-in Appliances
· Cabinets and Countertops
· Chimney/Fireplace
·
Driveways and Walkways
· Electrical System
· Exterior Grading
and Drainage
· Foundation/Basement/Crawl space
· Framing/Structure
·
Garage
· Heating and cooling systems
· Insulation
·
Interior Rooms (non-cosmetic)
· Patios and Decks
· Plumbing
System
· Roof/Attic
· Siding and Trim
· Windows
and Doors
The inspection report
Most inspections roughly take around three hours. You are encouraged to accompany
the inspector during the inspection. At the end of the inspection , I will review
the findings with you and answer any questions you may have. Photos taken of the
home during the inspection and technical information pertaining to your purchase
along with the completed report will be emailed to you upon completion.
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Radon:
The Invisible Intruder
Attorney General of New York State
by
Jeanette E. Barnes, Science Aide
Michael H. Surgan, Ph.D., Chief Scientist
Environmental
Protection Bureau February 1996 Revision
Contents
·
What is radon?
· What are the
health hazards of exposure to radon?
· How
are people exposed to radon?
· Is there a safe
level of exposure to radon?
· Is there a radon
problem where I live?
· If I live in an area
with high average radon levels, will I necessarily have a radon problem?
·
How do I test for radon in my home?
· Are
there any testing tips I should know?
· How
can I reduce radon accumulation in my home?
· What
should I look for in a contractor?
· What
do I do after I reduce my home's radon concentrations?
· If
I am building a new home or addition in an area with high radon levels, can I
take any precautionary measures?
· I live in
an apartment building. Should I be concerned about radon?
· Resources
What
is radon?
Radon is a colorless, odorless, radioactive
gas which is created naturally by the breakdown of uranium and radium. Radon gas
is continuously released from rocks and soil containing these two elements. Uranium
and radium may be found in almost all soil and
rock, but are most often associated
with those containing granite, shale, and phosphate. Once formed, radon itself
decays into other radioactive elements, known as "radon daughters" or
"progeny". The rate at which a radioactive element decays is expressed
as its half-life. (A half-life is the time it takes for half of a radioactive
element in a sample to decay into another element.) Radon has a half-life of about
three days; its daughter particles all have half-lives of less than half an hour.
What
are the health hazards of exposure to radon?
The Surgeon
General has declared radon exposure to be the second leading cause of lung cancer
deaths in the United States, after smoking. Exposure to natural radon is estimated
to be responsible for 7,000 to 30,000 lung cancer deaths each year in the United
States. As with other forms of cancer, lung cancer resulting from exposure to
radon may develop over many years before it is diagnosed. Radon and its progeny
can attach themselves to dust particles that may be inhaled and lodge in the lungs.
Once there, these elements break down and emit radiation which can damage lung
tissue and eventually cause lung cancer. The best way to reduce your risk of lung
cancer due to radon is to reduce your exposure to radon.
How are people
exposed to radon?
Radon gas continuously seeps into
the air from uranium- and radium-bearing soil and rock. Outdoors, due to dilution
in the ambient air, concentrations are generally so low as to be insignificant.
However, if the gas becomes trapped in a poorly ventilated, enclosed space, the
concentrations will build up. This can be a problem in any structure built on
rocks or soil naturally emitting this gas. Any home may have elevated radon levels.
Gaseous radon can enter a home through foundation cracks, openings for pipes,
wall/floor joints, chimneys, sumps, unfinished crawl spaces, and hollow, concrete
block foundations. Once inside, the gas may be trapped and accumulate, especially
during the winter months when windows are seldom open. If air pressure in the
house is lower than that of the soil, radon gas may actually be pulled from the
soil into the house. Reduced air pressure results from the use of exhaust fans
(such as those in clothes dryers, kitchens, and athrooms), and some home heating
devices (such as fireplaces and furnaces). Natural shifts in air pressure, such
as those associated with a storm or strong winds, may also alter indoor air pressure
enough to draw radon gas into the home. Well water can be contaminated with radon
and may carry radon into a house through the water pipes. Tests show that radon
may be dispersed into the air when such water is either aerated, running or heated.
Municipal water supplies are normally aerated, which releases radon gas from the
water before it enters a house. Most public water sources therefore pose little
threat. Since water from private wells is generally not aerated before entering
the home, it is more likely to contain radon, if it is drawn from uranium- or
radium- bearing rocks. When radon-contaminated water is heated or agitated, as
in a dishwasher, washing machine, or during a shower, the radon will be released
into the surrounding air. Studies show that the cancer risk associated with inhaling
radon gas released from contaminated water is greater than that from drinking
such water. The EPA estimates that 100 to 1800 annual lung cancer deaths are the
result of inhaling radon from household water. Radon has also been detected in
some construction materials, although this is rare. Construction materials that
are possible radon-emitters include any material made from rock or soil that contains
uranium, such as brick or building block. Usually eighty percent of any radon
entering a house comes from the soil or rock on which the building is constructed.
The balance is carried by water entering a house through water supply pipes, with
a small percentage being emitted from materials used in construction of the house
itself.
Is there a safe level of exposure to radon?
No
federal or state standards define the amount of radon that is safe. The EPA has
set a level of concern or "action level" for homes, above which remedial
action should be considered. This radiation level is currently an annual average
of 4 picocuries per liter of air (pCi/L), which may also be referred to as 0.2
"working levels" (WL). The exposure rate at the action level is equivalent
to having slightly more than 200 chest X-rays per year. With this exposure, approximately
2 out of every 1000 non-smokers would develop lung cancer over a 70-year period.
This represents a lung cancer risk that is 9 to 12 times higher than that of people
who have not been exposed to radon. Tests show that radon exposure in conjunction
with smoking greatly increase the risk of lung cancer, to a level higher than
the sum of the risks of either radon exposure or smoking alone. This is called
a synergistic effect, and it can have serious health consequences. For example,
if exposed to a radon level of 4 pCi/L over a lifetime, approximately 30 out of
1000 smokers would develop lung cancer. The risk of lung cancer from smoking alone
is approximately 10 chances out of 1000. Children are more susceptible to the
adverse effects of exposure to many toxic substances. This is especially true
of carcinogens. Children may be more sensitive than adults to radon exposure,
since their lung cells are rapidly dividing, their lungs are smaller, and their
breathing rate is faster. However, the EPA action level figure was calculated
for adults. Household radon exposure has been targeted by EPA officials because
most of a person's time is spent in the home; therefore, that is where the risk
of radon exposure is greatest. If you spend most of your time in another indoor
location -- such as an office building or shop -- you should be equally concerned
about that exposure. If you have reason to believe that your place of work may
have a radon problem, contact your employer or the building manager to ascertain
if any tests have been performed or any remedial action taken. Generally speaking,
the EPA believes that the greater your exposure to radon, the greater your risk
of developing lung cancer. Any exposure may carry an increased risk of cancer.
Remember that the EPA action level is not a standard of "safe" exposure
to radon.
Is there a radon problem where I live?
Radon
has been detected, at varying levels, in every county in New York with the exception
of Richmond county (Staten Island). In New York, the Department of Health administers
a continuous study of statewide radon levels classified by county and city. To
obtain a copy, call the New York State Radon Hotline (the number is listed on
page 8) and ask for the "Gazetteer" Code Report. This report is updated
quarterly. As of June 1995, the counties with the highest average basement radon
concentrations were: Allegany, Chemung, Chenango, Cortland, Onandaga, Otsego,
Steuben, Tioga, and Wyoming. However, it is possible for a radon problem to exist
in a home situated in any county. The potential for a radon problem is determined
by several factors including local geology, water supply, home construction, and
ventilation. Although location is a very important factor, since it relates to
the presence of uranium- and radium-bearing rock, your water supply, home construction,
and ventilation will also help to determine if you have a radon problem.
If
I live in an area with high average radon levels, will I necessarily have a radon
problem?
No, you may or may not have a problem. Your
home's construction and ventilation may affect the potential for the accumulation
of radon gas. An important fact to remember is that radon levels vary from house
to house, even within the same block. Only proper testing can reveal a radon problem
in your home.
How do I test for radon in my home?
There
are several radon testing devices on the market. These include the activated charcoal
canister, the alpha-track-etch detector, the Continuous Working Level Monitor,
and the Radon Progeny Sampling Unit. The charcoal canister is the least expensive
and quickest testing method currently available. It is made up of a filtered plastic
container filled with charcoal. Radon present in the air is captured on the charcoal,
and can later be measured in the laboratory. The New York State Department of
Health sells charcoal canisters to test for radon. The charge is $4, which includes
the cost of the canister and of laboratory analysis. If you have had a home energy
audit performed by your local utility company, the canisters and analysis will
be provided free of charge. Many hardware stores and mail-order catalogues also
offer radon testing devices. If you decide to purchase one, look for the phrase,
"Meets EPA Requirements" to insure a more reliable result. If laboratory
analysis fees are not included in the price of the device, make sure to send the
canister to a Department of Health-approved lab for analysis. Call the Radon Hotline
(number on page 8) for a list of approved labs. Although charcoal canisters are
the simplest, most inexpensive method for initial testing, they are not the most
accurate. Charcoal canisters may provide inaccurate results because radon levels
may vary daily and seasonally due to changes in radon infiltration rates, home
ventilation, and humidity. Therefore, the sample you take may not represent typical
conditions over the course of the year. Serious questions have also been raised
about the ability of some laboratories to accurately measure the radon collected
in the canisters. It is important to use only an approved lab for analysis. Nevertheless,
charcoal canisters help to quickly indicate the presence of extremely high radon
levels. Using the canisters during the winter months, for example, may provide
an estimate of the highest probable radon levels in the home. In any event, it
is wise not to rely on a single charcoal canister test, be they high or low. EPA
recommends that homeowners test for radon more than once, regardless of the initial
results. It is also important to remember that charcoal canisters only measure
radon levels for a short period of time, while the EPA's "action level"
is based on a yearly average measurement. Other radon testing methods are available.
They require longer testing periods and are more expensive, but they can give
a more accurate estimate of long-term radon levels in your home. Alpha track detectors
can measure radon on a seasonal or annual basis. An alpha track detector is comprised
of a filtered container with a small piece of plastic inside. When radon decays
in the air, the energy particles emitted strike the plastic and leave marks called
"damage tracks". A laboratory then counts the number of tracks, which
corresponds to the concentration of radioactive substances in the test area. (The
alpha-track detectors are available from the Radon Hotline for $18, for as long
as current supplies last.) Like the charcoal canisters, alpha track detectors
must be properly used and carefully analyzed to obtain accurate results. The two
can be used in a complementary manner. While an alpha-track detector may be set
up for several months to a year, a charcoal canister or two could provide an early
warning of high radon levels. Other radon monitoring devices, such as the Continuous
Working Level Monitor and the Radon Progeny Sampling Unit, usually require the
services of professionals to install and monitor, and thus are far more expensive.
(See page 8 to obtain a list of EPAcertified radon testing contractors.) It may
cost $200 or more to test your home with these devices. If a test result does
reveal high radon levels, homeowners should consider additional tests and/or remediation,
according to EPA guidelines. For radon levels between 4 and 20 pCi/L, EPA recommends
that reduction methods should be instituted within one to two years. For levels
between 20 and 200 pCi/L, radon concentrations should be reduced to below the
action level within several months. For radon concentrations over 200 pCi/L, measures
should be taken to reduce levels within a few weeks. If it is impossible to institute
remediation methods immediately, EPA recommends temporarily relocating until radon
levels can be reduced. Testing is also available for radon-bearing water supplies.
However, testing for radon in water should be done only by certified contractors.
The tests generally cost approximately $25 to $50. (Contact the New York State
Department of Health at [518] 458- 6755 for a list of contractors certified to
perform radon-in-water tests.) And, as for air monitoring, EPA recommends that
homeowners repeat radon-in-water tests, regardless of the initial test results.
Are
there any testing tips I should know?
While it
is important to follow the specific instructions included with a testing device,
there are some general guidelines to follow that may make your test results more
accurate. Air sampling, such as with charcoal canisters, is typically done for
one or two days. Before beginning the test, it is important to reduce ventilation
as much as possible. Try to keep all windows and doors closed, and all fans off,
for 12 hours before opening the canisters and for the duration of the test. Try
to avoid testing during storms or windy weather. The Surgeon General suggests
that radon tests be conducted on the lowest three floors of a building. EPA recommends
placing any testing device on the lowest livable level of a home. "Lowest
livable level" means the lowest level of the home which either is or could
be made into a habitable area. This would include any existing or planned basement
laundry room, play room, or basement bedroom. The "lowest livable level"
designation does not mean that the area must be continuously used; even occasional
use (such as with a laundry room) is enough to warrant testing.
How can
I reduce radon accumulation in my home?
After
testing, you may wish to take steps to reduce radon levels. This can be accomplished
in a variety of ways. Sealing the entry points for the radon gas can be a simple,
low-cost, relatively quick way to reduce accumulation rates. These entry points
include basement sumps, unfinished crawl spaces, cracks, and holes. A list of
caulking compounds that can be used to seal a house (including information on
lifespan, shrinkage, ease of application, flexibility, adhesion, and cost), is
available through the Radon Hotline. Improving house ventilation will help move
the radon gas out of your house. This may require only that you open windows or
vents, or use exhaust fans. Special ventilation systems can divert radon gas before
it enters the house. For example, a fan can draw radon gas out of the soil through
ducts leading from the ground and/or the foundation to the outdoors. A basement
sump can be enclosed and vented to the outside. These types of measures must be
carefully designed and installed. Before beginning any type of radon mitigation,
you should obtain additional information on radon reduction techniques and a listing
of licensed contractors. Consult the sources listed on page 8. Information is
also available for do-it-yourself homeowner radon reduction. Increased ventilation
may also increase energy consumption. To minimize energy costs, ventilation can
be combined with air-to-air heat recovery systems, which transfer heat (with minimal
use of energy) from outgoing warm air to incoming cool air and viceversa. Local
heating and cooling contractors or equipment suppliers can provide these systems.
Increasing air pressure within the house will help keep radon out. This can be
done by supplying additional sources of air from the outside to furnaces and fireplaces.
This type of renovation should not be attempted by the ordinary homeowner without
assistance from a qualified contractor, as incorrectly-altered furnace ventilation
systems may create a backdraft of combustion gases (such as carbon monoxide) into
the home. Radon mitigation methods for a typical single-family home may range
in cost from $500 to $2500. The average cost is about $1200. Of the alternatives,
EPA believes the most effective methods involve radon diversion and increased
house ventilation in combination with air-to-air heat recovery, although these
are also relatively expensive.
What should I look for in a contractor?
EPA
has developed a checklist of important questions to ask a prospective contractor,
which will provide specific information about construction contracting. (To obtain
a copy of the EPA publication entitled Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction, see
the publications listing on page 9.) Generally speaking, it is a good idea to
obtain proof of certification, liability insurance, and a contract performance
guarantee. As with any home repair, we recommend obtaining several written estimates
and checking the reputation of the contractor before signing any repair contract.
Call your local Better Business Bureau for information about specific contractors.
What
do I do after I reduce my home's radon concentrations?
It
is important to test for radon soon after instituting radon remediation measures.
This will indicate whether the remediation measures have been successful, and
if radon levels have indeed decreased. This test may also alert you to a previously-unknown
radon entry pathway. EPA recommends that a 7-day test be performed within 30 days
of reduction system completion. EPA-certified reduction contractors are required
to recommend that follow up testing be performed by an independent party, to prevent
conflicts of interest. They are also required to install a system-failure warning
device, which will monitor your home's radon levels after remediation and If I
am building a new home or addition in an area with high radon levels, can I take
any precautionary measures? Yes. Several technical manuals produced by the EPA
address pre-construction concerns. You can find information on building materials
and construction methods for building new homes that can minimize radon infiltration
in the technical manuals listed on page 10.
I live in an apartment building.
Should I be concerned about radon?
Most of the data
available on radon is based on studies performed on single-family homes. The information
that is available suggests that radon concentrations in multilevel buildings are
generally a few tenths of a picocurie, which is well below the EPA level of concern.
Multi-level
buildings typically show lower radon concentrations on the upper floors, and higher
concentrations closer to ground level. However, if the apartment building receives
drinking water from a radon-contaminated well, the radon levels are likely to
be higher in the upper floors. This is because water will aerate at the highest
possible elevation, and the aeration process will release radon into the air.
In closing, remember that one need not live with the risk of lung cancer that
radon exposure can create. Get your home tested and, if necessary, take steps
to reduce the entry and accumulation of radon gas in your home.
.
As
the technologies of radon measurement and remediation continue to develop, improved
devices and procedures may become available. Before testing for radon or attempting
any remediation, consumers should obtain the latest information from the Radon
Hotline ([800]-458-1158) or the Environmental Protection Agency ([212]-637- 3663).
Resources
The
Minnesota radon project. http://www.csbsju.edu/MNradon/
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Got
Mold? Frequently Asked Questions About Mold
What
are molds?
With more than 100,000 species in the world, it is no wonder molds
can be found everywhere. Neither animal or plant, molds are microscopic organisms
that produce enzymes to digest organic matter and spores to reproduce. These organisms
are part of the fungi kingdom, a realm shared with mushrooms, yeast, and mildews.
In nature, mold plays a key role in the decomposition of leaves, wood, and other
plant debris. Without mold, we would find ourselves wading neck-deep in dead plant
matter. And we wouldn't have great foods and medicines, such as cheese and penicillin.
However, problems arise when mold starts digesting organic materials we don't
want them to, like our homes.
How do molds grow in my home?
Once mold
spores settle in your home, they need moisture to begin growing and digesting
whatever they are growing on. There are molds that can grow on wood, ceiling tiles,
wallpaper, paints, carpet, sheet rock, and insulation. When excess moisture or
water builds up in your home from say, a leaky roof, high humidity, or flooding,
conditions are often ideal for molds. Longstanding moisture or high humidity conditions
and mold growth go together. Realistically, there is no way to rid all mold and
mold spores from your home; the way to control mold growth is to control moisture.
How can I be exposed to mold?
When molds are disturbed, their spores
may be released into the air. You then can be exposed to the spores through the
air you breath. Also, if you directly handle moldy materials, you can be exposed
to mold and mold spores through contact with your skin. Eating moldy foods or
hand-to-mouth contact after handling moldy materials is yet another way you may
be exposed.
How can molds affect my health?
Generally, the majority
of common molds are not a concern to someone who is healthy. However if you have
allergies or asthma, you may be sensitive to molds. You may experience skin rash,
running nose, eye irritation, cough, congestion, and aggravation of asthma. Also
if you have an immune suppression or underlying lung disease, you may be at increased
risk for infections from molds.
Links
When necessary, some resourceful
molds produce toxins in defense against other molds and bacteria called mycotoxins.
Depending on exposure level, these mycotoxins may cause toxic effects in people,
also. Fatigue, nausea, headaches, and respiratory and eye irritation are some
symptoms that may be experienced from exposure to mycotoxins. If you or your family
members have health problems that you suspect are caused by exposure to mold,
you should consult with your physician.
How do I know if I have a mold
problem?
You may have seen white thread-like growths or clusters of small black
specks along your damp bathroom or basement walls, or smelled a "musty"
odor. Seeing and smelling mold is a good indication that you have a mold problem.
However, you cannot always rely upon your senses to locate molds. Hidden mold
can be growing behind wall coverings or ceiling tiles. Common places to find mold
are in areas where water has damaged building materials and furnishings perhaps
from flooding or plumbing leaks. Mold can also be found growing along walls where
warm moist air condenses on cooler wall surfaces, such as inside cold exterior
walls, behind dressers, headboards, and in closets where articles are stored against
walls. Rooms with both high water usage and humidity, such as kitchens, bathrooms,
laundry rooms, and basements are often havens for mold. If you notice mold or
know of water damaged areas in your home, it is time to take action to control
its
growth.
How can I control mold growth in my home?
Fix any moisture
problems in your home: · Stop all water leaks first. Repair leaking roofs
and plumbing fixtures. Move water away from concrete slabs and basement walls.
· Increase air circulation within your home, especially along the inside
of exterior walls, and ventilate with fresh air from outside. Provide warm air
to all areas of the home. Move large objects away from the inside of exterior
walls just a few inches to provide good air circulation.
· Install and
use exhaust fans in bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms.
· Ventilate
and insulate attic and crawl spaces. Cover earth floors in crawl spaces with heavy
plastic.
· Clean and dry water damaged carpets, clothing, bedding, upholstered
furniture within 24 to 48 hours, or consider removing and replacing damaged furnishings.
·
Vacuum and clean your home regularly.
How do I clean up mold?
The time
you are most likely to stir up spores and be exposed is the very time you are
trying to clean up your mold problem. That's when you need to be the most careful.
First, try to determine the extent of the mold infestation. If the area is small
and well defined, clean up can be done by you, as long as you are free of any
health symptoms or allergies. However, if the mold problem is extensive, such
as between the walls or under the floors, you should leave clean up to a professional.
Large
Areas
1. Consider having a professional cleanup the area. To find a professional,
check under "Fire and Water Damage Restoration" in your Yellow Pages.
If you decide to clean up on your own, follow the guidance below.
2. Protect
yourself by using goggles, gloves, and breathing protection while working in the
area. For large consolidated areas of mold growth, you should use an OSHA (Occupational
Safety & Health Administration) approved particle mask.
3. Seal off area
from the rest of your home. Cover heat registers or ventilation ducts/ grills.
Open a window before you start to clean up.
4. Remove all your furnishings
to a neutral area to be cleaned later. Follow cleaning directions below.
5.
Bag all moldy materials, you will be discarding.
6. Scrub all affected hard
surfaces:
· First with a mild detergent solution, such as laundry detergent
and warm water.· Then use a solution of ¼ cup bleach to one quart
of water. Wait 20 minutes and repeat. Wait another 20 minutes.
· Last
apply a borate-based detergent solution and do not rinse. This will help prevent
mold from growing again. To find a borate-based detergent, read the ingredients
listed on the package label for borates.
7. Give the entire area a good cleaning.
Vacuum floors, and wash bedding and clothes if exposed.
Small areas
1.
Protect yourself by using goggles, gloves, and breathing protection while working
in the area. For small isolated areas of mold growth, a cotton dust mask should
do.
2. Seal off area from the rest of your home. Cover heat registers or ventilation
ducts/grills. Cover all your furniture. Open a window before you start clean up.
3.
Bag all moldy materials, you will be discarding.
4. Scrub all affected hard
surfaces:
· First with a mild detergent solution, such as laundry detergent
and warm water.
· Then use a solution of ¼ cup bleach to one
quart of water. Wait 20 minutes and repeat. Wait another 20 minutes.
Last apply
a borate-based detergent solution and do not rinse. This will help prevent mold
from growing again. To find a borate-based detergent, read the ingredients listed
on the package label for borates.
5. Give the entire area a good cleaning,
vacuum floors, and wash bedding and clothes if exposed.
Clean all furnishings
exposed to mold.
Permeable and washable
Such as clothing, bedding,
and other washable articles. Simply run through the laundry. Non-permeable and
washable Such as wood, metal, plastic, glass, and ceramics. Mix a solution of
one cap bleach to one quart of water. Bleach may fade colors, so test your beach
solution before using. If fine, wipe down your articles.
Permeable but
not washable
Such as beds and furniture. If these furnishings are moldy you
should consider discarding
and replacing them. If you decide it is a keeper,
take the furnishing outside. Give it a
good vacuuming, and let it air out.
When finished, if you do not notice an odor it should
be okay. However, watch
for any mold growth or health problems.
Who can I contact for more information?
Should
you need additional information on mold, please contact Tim Hardin of the Washington
State Department of Health at (360) 236-3363 or tim.hardin@doh.wa.gov.
For more information and a resource list on mold and related topics go to: http://www.michiganheat.com/pdf/mold_res.pdf
Preferred Vendor in the Saint Cloud, Minnesota Home Inspectors Directory at
Inspectionzone.com.
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